Nothing at the Sukhothai is spectacular, but everything pulls together to create a capital dining spot that is simultaneously charming and comfortable. This is a restaurant that has been painstakingly assembled and lovingly operated for over two years on a soi that has eaten up many larger ventures. The key to the Sukhothai’s success is management’s attention to detail. It has no serious flaws and is an excellent example of how a small restaurant should be operated.

The interior is that of a traditional Thai house as owned by a wealthy family. There is lots of rich brown wood, numerous antiques, beautiful paintings, Celadon dishes and music from a traditional Kim playing on the sound system. It is easy to make customers feel like they are eating in a museum with the traditional Thai house routine, but the Sukhothai pulls it off. Rather than being stiff and formal, it comes across as a real home.

The service is especially laudable. The headwaiter has been around for a while and it shows. He is confident, knowledgeable and obviously enjoys dealing with people. It’s too bad other restaurants particularly small ones – don’t realize the importance of having servers who know what they are doing. They are often the difference between success and failure.

The Sukhothai’s menu is comprehensive and includes traditional Thai favourites, plus an excellent selection of freshwater prawn (B600) and soft-shell crab (B300) dishes. The heat generated by Thailand’s omnipresent chillies has been toned down for farang tastes. This immediately raises the issue of authenticity, but I think this is a false issue. It is the other spicing that is important because it can’t be controlled at the dining room table. The Sukhothai’s dishes possess the requisite other spices and those desiring more heat can add it once a dish arrives. This might not please all Thai diners, but it is a boon to heat sensitive farang.

My only real complaint about the Sukhothai is its failure to create a set menu for noontime diners. The size of the servings makes it difficult – and expensive – for individual customers to eat lunch at the restaurant.

If you are looking for a Thai restaurant with a comprehensive selection of excellent dishes and an intimate and comfortable setting, the Sukhothai is one of the best places in town. It is more expensive than most small Thai restaurants, but the quality of the operation makes it worth it. This is an excellent place to entertain out-of-town guests.